Eyre Peninsular

Travelling south towards Port Augusta we started making enquiries as to where the school mail pack was, online tracking was showing still in Sydney but it seems Toll could not locate the item and so after stocking up with supplies we continued west towards Iron Knob an old mining town that again had seen better days. Of course on arrival the couriers called to say they had found the package and forwarding on would be tricky so we agreed to return the 60km the next day to collect. The town of Iron knob was the first place in South Australia that iron ore was mined, along with Iron Monarch these two mines were the start of something big for the area creating many jobs and with the export operation in nearby Whyalla you can see the connection between the local areas, I can also see why BHP named a ship Iron Monarch now, the alternative could have been embarrassing to some.
We had read the mine just outside of town had been closed since 1998, we can reliably confirm after a night spent listening to dump trucks reversing that the mine is opening up again, however the donation camp in town is nice if not a little exposed to the winds but served its purpose for the one night.

The next day it was back to Port Augusta, package in hand we could now head south along the coast first calling in Whyalla, this town was built around the ore mines it services and we were lucky to catch up with a resident Mike from aulro to have a chat and get some inside knowledge of the run further south down the coast. Reminding me of my previous work sitting alongside the wharf was the CSL Whyalla, an interesting solution to exporting large bulk cargos without being able to get large ships into port, loading this vessel alongside it can then head out off port to load into larger waiting vessels.

We left Whyalla hoping to make camp that night around Tumby Bay Area but it was getting late in the day so we checked out a free camp at Port Gibbon, unfortunately it was packed with grey nomads so we pushed on until Arno Bay. Now calling ahead we asked if they had a site which was fine and a good price too at $28pn, unfortunately the site given to us was not even a sight but a dirt patch next to the amenities, complaining got us an ocean front site, next to the fish cleaning bay and in the tightest corner of the park but we managed to reverse in first time gaining credit from the others setup around us.
It turned out to be quite a nice stay mainly due to the lovely couples setup next to us, from the Adelaide local to the Queensland couple who we arranged to meet later in Kunanurra layer in the trip (where is that?).

Our next days travel we think is our record as the shortest day travelled, from Arno Bay you continue south past Port Neill and turn left at the sign for Lipson Cove. We had been given a tip about this for Barry back in Sydney and what a treat it was to arrive at the top of the hill overlooking the bay and not a camper in sight, most unusual as we had heard the place was full the previous day so be careful what you do with information recieved.
We stayed three nights at Lipson Cove, a $10pn honesty box is used and there are a couple of toilets, but you also get a lovely beach to fish, walk or swim. Whilst there only a few other campers joined us and despite the wind on some occasions it really was one of the highlights for us in this part of South Australia. Also from here you are only a short distance from Tumby Bay where they have all the facilities you could required and fresh water available to top up the tanks just out of town.

Tumby Bay

  

Back on the road and Port Lincoln was the next destination, we had been given a tip from a family we met in Tasmania that the swimming with Tuna activity was worth the money, that and it being Kellie and Lil's birthday that week a little time to recharge was required. The caravan park is set on the south side of town overlooking Boston Bay, surprisingly it was quite busy but the site was nice and the amenities good, at the time they had a pay three stay 4 deal which was good for the budget.
From Port Lincoln we did a day trip out to the Lincoln National Park which has a selection of campsites right on the water and some large sites for those witH caravans, the main road through the park is sealed until you go past Surfleet Point towards Cape Donnington where it becomes good dirt.

Cape Donnington

On the last day when we were leaving Port Lincoln we had booked to swim with the Tuna as it was the only date available, so after an early pack up we were parked at the marina waiting for the boat out to the Tuna. Once on the boat we left the marina for the short trip out to Tuna holding pen, these are a large circular structure which floats on the surface with a nett hanging underneath containing around 60 bluefin tuna. Disembarking the boat after some safety instructions those that were swimming got off first to suit up in wetsuits (no pictures sorry), the others on the boat were just going to feed tuna from the pontoon. There was an inner section containing some of the local fish species which was the first stop for those of us swimming, lowering yourselves into the water you are greeted by a couple of very friendly Mowong's which know they will get a feed soon, paddling out into the middle there where large Snapper, Tommy Roughs, Trevally and cruising around the bottom of the net some Port Jackson Sharks. Whilst the kids were not overly happy about getting into the pool Lily made an effort and joined Kellie out in the middle briefly until she saw something bigger than her and returned to the side. The best bit was still to come, once ready the guides called us over to the Tuna section, now if you are more used to eating Tuna for a can seeing them in the flesh can be quite a surprise, these were 35-75kg examples which can grow upto 40 years old. Once in the water you can see the power and speed of these impressive creatures, and then the guides start throwing dead pilchards over our heads and around us sending the Tuna into something of a frenzie, amazingly non hit us but for Kel and I it was a great experience. The kids did not miss out getting to feed the tuna using the poles from the pontoon, for us in the water the guide would throw us a pilchard and we could hold it out underwater for the tuna to take from our hands, brilliant if not slightly scary. After our swimming fun the kids had fun checking out the touch pools which contained various crabs, mollusc's and starfish, before it was time to get out of the wetsuits and head back to shore.

On the way back in the skipper gave out some information about the Port Lincoln area, the tuna business brings in $230mil for the town, on top of the $30mil produced from mussel and king fish farming, per capita the town has the highest rate of millionaires and only 11 companies have licences to fish for tuna, amazing for such a small town.

Off the boat we headed out of town towards Coffin Bay, I had heard the oysters were good from this area but it seems they do not want you to buy them locally as we could not find anywhere selling them. By now it was getting late so we had to find somewhere to stop for the night, back onto wikicamps and we found Farm Beach just north of Coffin Bay. A dirt road takes you the 10km off the highway into the small community campground, another good spot with $10pn and basic amenities. We caught up with another couple for 5 o'clock drinks and they gave us the run down of where to get some oysters in the morning and some tips travelling further north up the coast.
And so we packed up the following morning and found the oyster sheds just down the road, $20 for just over 2 dozen unshucked oysters straight from the cages they grow them in, now that's fresh.

Now it was a drive up the coast stopping in Elliston for lunch, the have a number of sculptures around the town, the one below making reference to the squid fishing in the area.

 



After Elliston we continued north before turning off the highway at Talia, here they have some ocean caves that you can access down a short set of steps, the pictures for me came up great for a novice photo taker.

The top of the cave is limestone with a honeycomb effect, the lower rock is sandstone.

At little further along the track you can find The Tub, this collapsed cave is still open to the sea from what we could work out.

 

Back on the road it was time to find a stop for the night, we had seen some information on a bushcamp just up the road so thought we would give it a try. Coodlie Park is a working property with a few cabins to rent and a nice open bush camping area with quirky showers not to everyone's liking.

 

 The next day we moved on towards Streaky Bay, first detour was into Venus Bay a very popular spot for fisherman and the caravan park was quite busy, there was a great view out over the ocean from the cliff tops looking out towards the entrance to Venus Bay. 

 

 

 

Further up the coast we took the turn off for Murphys Haystacks, Murphy's Haystacks are inselberg rock formations, they obtained their name because a traveller in a coach saw the formation in the distance. He asked how a farmer could produce so much hay. As the farm was on a property owned by a man called Murphy, the rocks became known as Murphy's Haystacks.

Further along the dirt road will take you to Australia's only permanent Sealion colony at Point Labatt, the road out is a little long when towing but once there from the cliff top you can see a number of Sealions on the rocks below and hear the young calling mothers. Interesting information for the day, Sealions have the flippers which they waddle on when moving over land, seals do not have the flippers so just shuffle on their bellies.

 

 

 

Back in the car we continue along the dirt road north to Streaky Bay, another very popular spot for fishing and a nice jetty in the middle of town, one item of interest is the replica of the Great White Shark caught by a teenager in Streaky Bay. Imagine catching a 1520kg fish on a rod and reel, took him about 5 hours to reel it in and became a world record at the time.

 

We now had our destination Ceduna in range and after another 110km we arrived in town and setup at the Big4 caravan park in town, we plan to stay for a couple of days to meet some mail and restock supplies in readiness for our crossing of the Nullarbor into West Australia.
Thevenard is a port just next to Ceduna, we took a little drive around to check out the wharf and also found this memorial lighthouse to seafarers lost at sea which I thought was nice as people often forget the sacrifices made by those on the high seas. 

Next stop Western Australia.