East Coast Tasmania

After our week in Hobart we had planned to visit Freycinet National Park to see the famous Wineglass Bay, a postcard picture we had seen many times before and wanted to see in the flesh. It was also convenient that my old college mate Ben was camping up there with his family so we have a beer and catch up.
The drive up from Hobart takes you through some small coastal towns and we stopped in Swansea to restock supplies before heading into Coles Bay. We had also hoped to try and secure a National Park campsite but all were booked for the day we were arriving so made the call to book in at the local Big4 van park, knowing we get 10% each time with our membership certainly makes it easier to swallow the price. There are a couple of free camp options on the way into Coles Bay, one is Friendly Beaches which is on the Oceanside so the surf can be a bit too much for the kids, the other is River and Rocks campground which is on the edge of a lagoon. Once we arrived it was a quick disconnect (well it would have been had it not been for the boot lid on the van jamming), then down to the beach to see Ben.
Now Ben being the salty seaman he is had all manner of water craft for the kids and I to mess about with, from the hand built canoe to the windsurfer with no rudder (that's my excuse for not turning around!). We all had a pleasant afternoon on and in the water before getting cleaned up and going out for dinner at the local resort and returning to camp for a night cap before calling it quits for the night.

We had planned to do the Wine Glass Bay lookout walk the next day but with high winds and overcast sky's the walking tracks were closed so we bunkered down in the van watching a movie and playing games. I did manage to secure a site at the National Park campsite so the next day we moved the 1km to our new site on the beach and half the cost, the weather gods had come good so with clear sky's and light winds we were able to make the walk up to the Wine Glass Bay lookout, along with the bus of tourists that arrived at that same moment!. The walk takes around 2 hours return and is a fairly steep climb but the view from the top is very much worth it, for those inclined to do so you can then continue down to the beach but this adds another couple of hours to the walk so on this occasion we turned  around and made our way back to the car.

On our way back we took the turn off for Cape Tourville, continuing on with our visits to some of Australia's  lighthouses, the road out is about 5km and brings you too a small car park. Parks and Wildlife have done a great job constructing a boardwalk around the headland giving great views towards Wine Glass Bay and  over a couple of rocky outcrops affectionately called The Nuggets.




Back at camp I took off with the fishing rod to see if I couldn't catch anything, surprisingly I managed to catch a decent size Australian Salmon but not being sure about it's eating quality returned it to the sea.

Making our way further up the coast our next destination was Bay of Fires just near St Helens, on the way we stopped at a resort with a brewery, the beer produced under the label Ironhouse. As this is the resort owned by the Targa Rally entrant that lost his Lambo in flames a few weeks earlier it was only right I should chip in $5 for a tasting paddle.

We had seen a few camps available around St Helens and been given some tips on which ones to stay, seems we arrived during a busy spell as all the good spots were taken but we found a site and setup, shortly after someone advised the reason why our site was vacant, during heavy rain it floods!. Unperturbed we settled into our beach side spot and spent some time fishing off the beach with little success other than a few sand crabs, the kids had fun messing in the sand until late in the evening.

Exploring the area we took a drive north, another lighthouse was on the agenda, this time Eddystone Point. We travelled first to The Gardens a small settlement with just a few houses on the beach front and a few farms, then we took a forest road across to the main road which runs into Ansons Bay, this small township only accessible via dirt roads with no shops or services was certainly remote, camping is available at Policemens Point just south which is accessible for small caravans but again no facilities so bring all supplies with you.
On the map there is a 4wd track running from Ansons Bay to Eddystone Light, being the adventurous types we are the tyres where aired down and away we went, only to find the Parks people had closed the track to Eddystone, luckily you could still continue on down to a secluded little bay with big rocks colored red by the algae, the whole area covered in empty clam shells so obviously a good spot for a feed. We could even see the lighthouse we were aiming for up the coast so back in the car we went back to Ansons Bay and followed the main dirt road out to the point. After taking a look around and capturing a few photographs it was now late in the day and we had some distance to cover to get back but still took the time to try a different road to avoid covering previously driven roads.

Using the St Helens area as our base meant we could see some of the sights in the vicinity without taking the van, I know the motoring public of Tassie appreciate us being on the road as little as required with all the 40kmh hills... One day we took the main road west up the hills to see some waterfalls marked on the map, the first St Columba Falls required a short walk down a track through the trees and ferns before arriving at the viewing platform, these falls are 90m so one of the largest in Tasmania and quite impressive to see but one could only imagine the sight after heavy rains.



The next falls I wanted to visit we're called Ralph's Falls, a little trickier to get to along rough dirt roads and with the rain coming down quite heavy a keen eye was needed on the road ahead. Arriving at the car park the rain had stopped so off we went down another small walking track which brought you out at a viewing platform which I can imagine was a feat in itself to erect, the falls although not so spectacular we're still worth the trip seeing the interesting rock formations and the valley view below. On the return trip we had to complete another from Kel's todo list, many years ago she went to The Pub in the Paddock and wanted to have another look so we called in for a beer. Once a school building it became a pub in the 1880's and has been since, most recently a new attraction has been added with a pig that drinks beer from a bottle. The building really does have a great feel to it and we were assured the lunch and dinners are very popular but alas it will be another time when we get to sample the menu. Back to camp it was out with the fishing rods and sausages for dinner again. :)













We have to plan our days now as the kids have to do some school work in the morning before we explore any areas, this tends to mean we do not get away until lunchtime but with most things being so close this is not such an issue, we are starting to get into some kind of routine which helps.

Hobart and surrounds.

In Hobart we had arranged to stay at The Lea Scout Camp, another Wikicamps find which proved value for money. Although a basic arrangement for $15/night with power and water you cannot complain, also being only 10mins from Hobart and 5mins from Kingston shops you are very central. As soon as we were setup up we went into Hobart to catch the famed Salamanca Markets, this was one of Kellie’s to do items and it turned out to be quite enjoyable. Running the length of Salamanca Place the street market must be about 1-2km in length with stalls selling everything from fresh produce to hand carvings and everything in between. After the markets we were now feeling a little warm as the temperature was around 25’C (think of Bridlington on a hot day, that’s how Hobart felt), so we made our way to one of the beaches close to town for a swim. Although a little fresh the water was certainly refreshing and we were able to say we had swum in the Derwent River off Hobart, the next couple of days would not allow the same comforts as the warm weather was on its way and cold temperatures took over.

Wandering around Hobart the day before I had spotted some Targa Race officials so made some inquiries on the net, seems we had timed our visit for the Wrest Point Targa rally being held around the Huon Valley area so seemed only right we should try and catch some of the cars on the stage, this would also work well for our visit to Cygnet to check out the area. Taking the highway out to Huonville we turned south and made for a road junction just off Cygnet Coast Road, here we could take our position in amongst the trees over looking a downhill section of road which turned at the bottom heading back up the hill, the course car had only just been through so we were just in time to see the cars come through. Targa Wrest Point is a smaller scale rally for the south of Tasmania and then later in the year they have the main Targa Tasmania around the northern regions, it looks like good fun and certainly a mixed bag of cars competing, unfortunately the Lamborghini finished the previous day as a pile of molten plastic and metal so one less supercar to see in action, we did however have running commentary from Fred as each car came into view and I have to be honest he was spotting the brands sometimes quicker than me!.

After the cars had been through we made our way over to Cygnet, this is a small town just inland from the bay Port Cygnet, with a small country town hall with a weekend market and also the more modern cafes you would see in a city suburb. I suspect some of it’s popularity may have come from the Gourmet Farmer show on TV filmed in this area. We had some lunch then took a walk up the main street checking out some of the shops and market stalls before making our way back to the car. This was also where the Targa cars were stopping mid stages so we got to see them at slower speeds and gave all the drivers a cheer and thumbs up as they headed back out of town for the next stage. From Cygnet we took the coast road around the peninsular through Verona Sands and Gordon before making our way back through Kingston and back to the van. Speaking to a fellow camper he mentioned that the Mount Wellington viewing platform was to close the following day for works so as we still had some daylight left in the day we had an early dinner and headed up there for a look. Mount Wellington sits 1400m above Hobart and provides a natural barrier from the westerly winds that sweep across Tasmania, driving up there is an effort in itself with lots of switch backs but for some crazy clowns there is a track that you can walk up!. Once at the top the views are spectacular, it was a little hazy when we were there due to some bushfires in the distant hills but still the feeling of being so high up was still amazing and the views over Hobart and its surrounding suburbs were great. We had promised the kids desert as we had the early dinner so headed into Hobart waterfront area in search of some sweet treats, we found the 24hrs bakery so all was well in the world but Hobart is very nice to walk around on a Sunday evening if you get the chance.

Monday dawned and all was not well in Liam land, not feeling too well we took a lazy day, a text confirmed the kids school work had arrived in Hobart so we went to collect that and went back to Kingston library to dissect the 7 weeks worth of work, Lil was very enthusiastic about this, Fred not so but they will get used to it and it will become part of the routine. We also managed a visit to the Cadbury Factory, $4 for adults and kids free you get a gift bag with some chocolates and can listen to a short talk by one of the ladies who have worked there for quite a few years, the main event being able to buy discounted chocolates in the shop which should last us a while.

I was not well for a couple of days, we did have the car booked in for a service at Justin Cooper Automotive, if you have a Land Rover and need a service look him up in Hobart. Whilst the car was in we took the bus into town to wander around the shops, visit the Maritime Museum and have lunch from one of the floating fish n chip boats in the dock.

Feeling a little better and the kids having done some school work we planned to visit the Historic sight of Port Arthur, this is about 1.5hrs from Hobart and you pass through a town called Dunally, for those that do not know this is one of the areas caught up in the bushfires only a year of so ago and you can see the devastation with burnt trees, house remains but also on a positive note there are quite a few new buildings so the locals seem to be getting back on track.

Arriving at Port Arthur you are greeted by the visitor centre run by Parks and Wildlife, a family pass at $80 is reasonable value as it also includes a 20min harbour cruise. Port Arthur is known for a couple of reasons, the first being the place where the English setup a convict prison which housed up to 2000 people during its times, the second more recent history was the mass shooting by Martin Bryant killing 35 and injuring many more back in 1996. We first had a look at the display in the main centre, this gave stories of convicts and how different people got by in the new location, then we made our way outside to join the next harbour cruise. Just to remind me of my old job the cruise ship Astor was anchored in the harbour, something I was trying to sell fuel before leaving on this adventure. The cruise gives to a quick view of the two additional sites linked to Port Arthur, one being the Island of the Dead where as many as 1000 convicts and military personal were buried, and the second being the Point Puer Boys Prison, built just before Parkhurst in the UK. Returning from the cruise we could now wander around the grounds and check out some of the buildings and stories from when the prison operated, much of the buildings though were damaged in bushfires back in the 1890’s but through the conservation work some are being brought back to life.

Back in Hobart our next location was Bruny Island, famed for its gourmet foods and stunning views we took the ferry across from Kettering, only 15mins, and made a quick tour of the northern side of the island. Our first food stop was for some oysters, these would be mine for lunch. Next stop Bruny Island Cheeses, all made on site and many different flavours to enjoy, we grabbed a small piece of Tom cheese made from raw milk and with a cheddar texture. Now we were ready for lunch so pulled up at an area called The Neck campsite to devour our feast. After lunch we made our way to Cape Bruny lighthouse, the 4th built in Australia, the original lighthouse still stands but the light is now provided by a new solar light on the opposite cliff top. About now we were hearing thunder and could see a big storm cloud building and heading our way so jumped back in the car and checked the map before taking a forest drive to Adventure Bay on the east coast of the Island. This is an area where Captain Cook landed and is commemorated by a couple of memorials in his honour. Adventure Bay looks to be a very nice area with holiday accommodation and a caravan park which was filling up with it being a long weekend coming for Hobart residents. Now it was back to the ferry and into Hobart but before we got there I noticed a sign to something called Tessellated Pavement, something in my mind reminded my to have a look so we turned around, Kel’s nan had mentioned this spot from her visit 20 years ago so we went for a look, basically salts building in the cracks causes the lines in the rocks which give the effect of paving.

That night we were meeting with Kel’s cousin and partner for dinner, now that I was feeling better I could enjoy some fishy goodness to finish off our time in Hobart, next stop would be Freycinet National Park, home to Wineglass Bay.

 

Waratah to Hobart

We arrived in Waratah just after lunch and duly checked out the caravan park, part of the reason for staying here and not at Cradle Mountain was the $40/night difference in price, it seems children give van parks an excuse to charge what they like so Waratah it was to be, only 30mins from Cradle Mountain anyway so perfect for a day trip. Waratah is an old mining town where copper was found in the mid 1800’s which kept the town on the map until late 1900’s when the mine closed. There is quite a lot of local history to read about as you wonder through the town and they have also moved an old single battery stamper complete with hut into town and built a shed around it so you can see how one of the locals mined on his own after the mine closed.

Another benefit to Waratah was the Platypus viewing areas just next to the park, we have been to a few places which promise sightings of Platypus and never managed to actually see one, our first night at Waratah had us watching three swimming around the lake, we really enjoyed seeing them.

Cradle Mountain is a wilderness area used by many prior to an Austrian couple building a chalet there and inviting friends to experience the area they loved so much. I had already prepped the kids and Kellie that I wanted to do one of the walks at Cradle Mountain, not being what you would call the most active bunch we usually manage a few short walks but the walk around Dove Lake is around 6km and takes 2-3hrs. Getting to the park in reasonable time we went straight for the walk, we would look at the visitor centre on our return so taking a shuttle bus up to the lake we started out on the walk. The wind was blowing quite strongly requiring a firm hold on our hats but as the walk meandered around the lake we got to take in the impressive views of Cradle Mountain, a beautiful spot and well worth the visit. I did try to wind the kids up about taking one of the longer and steeper walks up to one of the peaks but they now do not seem to believe me. Even with a short stop to have some lunch we still managed to complete the walk in just over two hours.

With the walking out of the way I spotted another local attraction devils@cradle, now we had being talking about Devils with the kids but they still have not seen any live so I thought it would be a good idea to check it out. The facility is a breeding centre for Devils to help in trying to stop the species going extinct, after a short video introduction the guide showed us around some of the Devils picking some up for us to pat, feeding another with a bone which it quite happily was crunching through. Also in the park where Eastern Quolls and Spotted Tailed Quolls, another couple of species living on the edge of existence. However the highlight for this family were the two baby Common Wombats being cared for after their mothers were hit by cars. they were only 8 and 10 months old and we all got to have a pat of the older one, if you could have one of these as pet I think we would be first in line.

Speaking to a fellow traveller in Waratah I mentioned we had not booked our return journey to Melbourne on the ferry, he advised to look into it quickly as friends of his struggled to find a ticket. Good job he told me as the latest I could book was 23rd February otherwise it would have been April and we don’t want to be here that long really.

The next day we headed off again towards Strahan, the road travels south through Rosebury and Zeehan where we took the road less travelled towards the coast and Strahan. Realising now that we only have 3 weeks to fit in Hobart and the East Coast we planned to stay only 2 nights in Strahan which would allow us to see a little of the area. Walking around the waterfront we checked out which Gordon River cruise company had the best deal, in the end we bought tickets for the Gordon River Cruise company and at $260 including lunch seemed the best value. Next on the agenda was to see a play I had read about before called ‘The Ship That Never Was’, it was due to start soon so we had a quick fish and chip dinner (one of the best!) and went back to enjoy the show.

The Ship That Never Was tells the story of a group of prisoners being incarcerated on Sarah Island in Macquarie Harbour building a boat and sailing to Chile. Four of the prisoners were returned to Sarah Island after the British found them in Chile, the others went on to escape and live their lives. The play has been running since 1984 with over 5000 performances and is very entertaining, some audience participation is involved and Lili took up the challenge like the little starlet she is, Fred was not so keen so hid under my jacket when required. Certainly if you are in Strahan ad this to the list of things to do.

Up early we arrived at the cruise boat on time, the Lady Jane Franklin II was to be our vessel for todays explorations, along with a few other people. Heading out from port the Captain gives some commentary which was both interesting and humorous regarding the local area and shipping past. First stop was Hells Gate, this is the opening to Macquarie Harbour, only 60m at its widest and then you are into the Southern Ocean, standing on the bow may not have been Kel’s best decision as we started rising and falling in the 5m swell coming at us. Turned around we head back to into sheltered waters and check out one of the fish farms this area is popular for, now we know the difference between Ocean and Rainbow trout, do you?. Now we pick up speed and head across the harbour to the Gordon River, impressively deep and mirror like surface due to the tannins from the trees up river it is a quite amazing view, at one point we are dropped off at Heritage Landing where you stroll along the walkway through the rain forest, we even spot a Tiger snake basking in the sun. Back on the boat lunch is served from the buffet, excellent food and fresh smoke salmon kept me going back for seconds. The final stop on the voyage is Sarah Island, met by a guide we are given a theatrical guide of the island, learning of some of the punishment the prisoners were put through and also the people commanding them, the Island was used to send convicts that had offended again once in Sydney, sending them to Sarah Island was to break their spirits and many did not leave the Island. Back on the boat and were are back in Strahan where we have a lazy evening at the van before packing up the next day Hobart bound.

Wanting to get to Hobart on Friday so Kel could check out the Salamanca Markets on the Saturday we left Strahan early’ish and made our way to Queenstown stopping for lunch and a wander around this mining town it felt very mad max in the way the mine spoils are piled around the town. Then a quick stop at Lake Lyell, this is the end of the overland track a 5 day walk from Cradle Mountain, stopping to check out an Echidna on the side of the road on the way out we managed to get to a place called Dunrobin Bridge where we could camp for the night, meaning only a short trip into Hobart the next day.

So now we are in Hobart, planning to spend a week but will see, still so much more to see and only a short time to see it.